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We look behind it and see an even bigger one. I was like, “This is fucken mean. I live for this shit.” There was more west in it, so it would just destroy the west bowl and channel. Just before I let go of the rope, Doug is yelling at me at top of his lungs, “Fucken go bro!” I drop down it and there’s a little wobble in it where it had drawn off the reef. I get to the bottom and get the hell out of there. I see a dry patch of reef where the channel is, and I’m like “no… no, no, no!” I am going so fast to outrun it. And I got smashed. Doug gave me a talk after it, saying, “I thought I put you into your grave.”
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